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Questions and Answers

Question:
Can you tell me how to prune or trim a Snow Fountain Weeping Cherry?

Answer:
The Snow Fountain Weeping Cherry has a peculiar shape. Most people prefer to keep the unique look to the limbs and let them grow a bit wild. If left alone, the limbs will grow until they reach the ground. If you prefer more of a twiggy umbrella look, cut off the branches at a uniform height after they flower. No matter what type of look you decide on for your weeping cherry, always remove dead, damaged and diseased wood as soon as you notice it.

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Question:
I just purchased a Rosewood tree in a 15-gallon container; it is growing straight up and is bending over at the top, about eight to ten feet. It has the makings of some nice strong side branches. Should I nip the top off say at seven feet to encourage a strong tree and to stop the weak top from drooping?

Answer:
Whatever pruning you decide to do on your rosewood tree, never remove more than one-eighth of the leaf surfaces during one year. That is too stressful for the tree and also causes an excessive number of water sprouts to develop. Many people choose to only prune a rosewood tree to maintain its shape. No matter what it does to the shape, always remove any dead, diseased or damaged branches as soon as you notice them. Also, prune suckers. These are the skinny, straight-up branches that grow from the base and trunk of the tree. When working on the shape of the tree, you will want to remove any big branches that cross or rub each other and any double leaders (these are two main top branches that have a narrow branch crotch). With smaller branches that rub or cross, keep the healthiest ones. If you have branches that hang to the ground, cut them back. If you want to control the size of your tree, you may want to trim that top branch. Generally, I do not recommend topping a tree, unless you want to control the size. If you think the two strong side branches are starting to serve as main branches (growing upright), you may want to cut back the center, drooping branch all the way back to the base of the tree. Stand back and evaluate the tree before doing any pruning. Make a multi-year plan if need be and always keep the one-eight rule in mind to avoid stressing the tree too much.

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Question:
I have some 2-year-old Leyland Cypress that need pruning, any suggestions?

Answer:
This variety of Cypress rarely needs pruning. Its natural shape includes random, ragged branches. You can prune it to keep it as a hedge, but even with this you only need to prune to control the height.

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Question:
What tool do I need to trim back blue fescue after the blooms dry out?

Answer:
To trim your blue fescue, use multi-purpose scissors. They are perfect for pruning low ground covers, flowers and small bushes. In fact, you'll find uses for these scissors all around the yard and house! In addition to removing blossoms after they have dried out, cut back the clumps in spring if they begin to look shabby. Also remove any brown foliage in the spring. The plants will benefit from dividing every few years.

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Question:
I have a beautiful, large pine tree next to my house. Unfortunately the roots are starting to approach the foundation. The root is approximately three inches in diameter. Will I hurt the tree if I prune the root?

Answer:
Cutting the roots of your pine tree shouldn't damage the tree. It will probably stunt the tree's growth for a couple of years, but it should bounce back in time. When cutting the roots try to make a circle around the tree just below where the outer branches reach. Try not to get any closer to the trunk than that circle. Use a spade to cut your circle around the tree. You may need to use a pruning saw to cut through the roots. A root saw will be perfect for cutting through the roots. Remove all roots from the ground that are beyond the circle around the tree.

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Question:
Is it O.K. to prune pear trees just like apple trees?

Answer:
It is fine to prune pear trees. It is generally best to prune pear trees late in the summer. You will stimulate the least amount of re-growth by pruning after the trees have finished growing for the year and have hardened their wood. If you live in an area where there's a chance for winter damage, wait to prune until late winter. While your pear trees are young, prune them to keep them from growing too tall. This will make it easier to harvest the fruit on the top branches. If you wait until the tree is too old to control the height, there is a great chance of inviting blight into the branches. Pear trees are generally easy to grow and maintain. This is one type of tree that tends to be self-thinning to save you some work. Give your pear trees the proper growing environment. Then maintain a regular pruning schedule to enhance the best possible fruit production.

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Question:
I have a 20-foot cedar in my yard. Can I cut 10 feet off the top? If the answer is yes, what is the best time of year and is a regular saw adequate?

Answer:
In all pruning, you should follow the one-third rule. Never cut off more than one third of the branches in any one growing year. Cutting off more than that may severely damage the tree and may permanently stunt its growth. When pruning your cedar tree, you should strive to have one main leader. With your mature tree, more than one leader may have developed. The more you have, the weaker they are and are more susceptible to weather damage. If the lower limbs are starting to die back, they need to be removed completely. Take a close look at your tree and make a plan to cut back the height over the course of several years, never cutting more than one third of the branches off during one year. Cut branches back to the laterals.

The best time to prune your cedar tree is between mid-winter and mid-spring. A regular saw is not adequate for pruning a tree. Its teeth are not designed to give the clean, straight cut your tree needs to heal quickly. I would recommend using a pruning pole saw. Depending on the diameter of the branches, a cut and hold long-reach pruner is a great option. Keep in mind that any time you find yourself FORCING a pruner to cut (having to use two hands or wiggling your wrist), you should stop and switch to either a lopper or saw.

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Question:
I have a Japanese Bloodgood Maple tree. How and when is the best time to prune it?

Answer:
Prune your Japanese Bloodgood Maple tree in the late summer or fall, when the sap has stopped running. Most maple trees do not need much pruning, other than to remove any dead, awkward or crossing limbs. You can remove the twiggy growth from the center of the tree to reduce the bushiness you mentioned. Always cut back each branch to its point of origin. Do not cut off just part of a branch. The branches near the ground are probably water sprouts and suckers. Those should also be removed this fall. Depending on the diameter of the branches on your maple tree, a cut-and-hold long-reach pruner is a great tool to choose. Keep in mind that any time you find yourself FORCING a pruner to cut (having to use two hands or wiggling your wrist), you should stop and switch to either a lopper or saw.

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Question:
What is the best time to prune peach trees? How do you do it?

Answer:
Peach trees should be pruned yearly to maintain an open center, to eliminate weak or misdirected branch growth. If the trees have experienced winter damage, prune off the damaged wood in the early spring. This will allow the wounds to close faster as growth begins. In the early spring you should also be able to see how many flower buds have survived the cold weather. Using thinning cuts also helps keep the center of the tree open. Be sure to thin the fruit on the trees to about 6 inches between fruits. Wait to thin the fruit until June to see what the tree naturally drops itself. This thinning increases the size and quality of the fruit, and it prevents limbs from breaking under the heavy weight of the fruit.

Don't let these peach trees branch too close to the ground. The best fruit often grows at the top of the trees. Keep the tops of trees low, so they are easily accessible. Always prune before early summer and start minimizing your watering at this time, too. You don't want to stimulate new growth on the tree that will not have time to harden before winter.

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Question:
When is the best time to prune black walnut trees?

Answer:
The best time to prune your black walnut trees is when they are dormant. This is in the late fall or winter. You should only prune branches that are less than two inches in diameter. This size branch heals much faster with less chance of decay and tree ring separation. You should not need to apply paint or other sealants to the pruning cuts.

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Question:
Should I wait until late winter to prune our Lemon tree, which is just now ripening with fruit?

Answer:
You are lucky, in the warm climate where you live; lemon trees can be pruned at any time of the year. Try to avoid very hot weather. This also applies to other citrus trees such as limes, oranges and grapefruit.

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Question:
How do you prune a five-year old plum tree?

Answer:
Plum trees should be pruned to maintain an open center. If the trees have experienced winter damage, prune off the damaged wood in the early spring. This will allow the wounds to close faster as growth begins. In the early spring you should also be able to see how many flower buds have survived the cold weather. Using thinning cuts also helps keep the center of the tree open. Be sure to thin the fruit on the tree. This thinning increases the size and quality of the fruit, and it prevents limbs from breaking under the heavy weight of the fruit. Don't let your plum tree branch too close to the ground. The best fruit often grows at the top of the trees. Keep the tops of trees low, so they are easily accessible.

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Question:
I have a healthy honeysuckle vine that is a mess! It has some new green and older barky growth. When is it a good time to prune this vine?

Answer:
The time to prune your honeysuckle vine if you are trying to control its growth is late in the spring after it has bloomed. This way you won't miss the beautiful blooms and heavenly scent, and the vine will grow back quicker in the warm weather. If your variety of honeysuckle is not a rampant grower, wait to prune until the vine is dormant in late winter or early spring. This will stimulate more growth the following season. Whenever you prune, be sure to thin out whole branches instead of just cutting off the tips. The key to pruning rapid-growing vines is to prune it on a regular basis: do not wait until it is out of control. If you are planning to change trellises, you may want to cut your honeysuckle vine way back and allow it to start fresh next spring. This should control the amount of older barky growth you currently have on your vine.

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Question:
I have four holly trees planted next to each other. Some years they produce berries other years they don't. Why? When and how should I prune them?

Answer:
Evergreen Holly trees generally require little pruning, except to maintain their shape. They should be pruned in the spring, while trees are still dormant, to remove crossing and rubbing branches. Also prune at this time to control other wayward growth. Pinch or shear the tree to encourage dense growth and to help maintain an attractive pyramidal form. Whatever trimming you do, do not cut back to the leafless portion of the branches. Cutting there could prevent re-growth.

There are many reasons why the trees do not produce berries each year. The weather and amount of moisture they receive are probably the two main factors. Holly trees need moist soil. Be sure to water the trees well before winter to help prevent winter burn. Sometimes it helps to wrap the trunks in burlap before winter. It is a good idea to keep a good layer of mulch around the trees'bases year round to protect the roots. Both male and female flowers grow on separate male and female plants. Both are required for berries to be produced. Berries are only produced on the female plants. If one or the other variety has had a bad year, this can affect berry development. Birds also eat the berries.

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Question:
I have an old apple tree that needs pruning. Could you please tell me when and how much to trim?

Answer:
The best time to prune your apple tree is when it is dormant. Generally this will be during the late fall and winter. Pruning in the hot summer months can be helpful for promoting fruit-bud formation, and cutting away some shoots just before the apples begin to ripen will let the sun reach them and allow them to soak up the sun, which is needed for the apples to turn rosy red. During the dormant season, you will want to cut away any overly vigorous stems, which are usually high in the trees. Cut these stems back to the old wood. Also remove any weak twigs. These twigs often hang from the undersides of the limbs. If the stems found low in the tree become too droopy, shorten them. Also, check for crowded branches. This is common in older trees. Thin out and shorten branch clusters to given them room to grow and also to invigorate them. If you notice a limb of fruit spurs that has declined with age and no longer bears much fruit, cut it back to allow space for a replacement.

As your apple tree ages, the spurs will crowd and start producing smaller fruit. By removing some spurs and cutting back others to a strong bud, you can invigorate the tree. Pay attention to how the apples are spaced on the tree. Apples grow best with a five-inch spacing. There should be no more than one fruit per flower cluster. Each fruit requires the work of about 40 leaves to receive enough nourishment. By evaluating your tree during the flowering and fruit-formation seasons, you can develop a plan for dormant tree pruning to invigorate your tree to optimal fruit bearing.

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Question:
I need to prune my Black Currant bushes. How do I know how old the branches are and how do I go ahead?

Answer:
On Black Currant bushes, the branches with the darker wood are the older branches. Black Currant bushes produce the most fruit on new growth from the previous year. A small amount of fruit will develop on second- and third-year branches. In late fall, cut back all shoots that are older than three years. This gives you an adequate supply of one-year-old wood, and it also stimulates new growth in the following season. While pruning your Black Currant bush also remove the smaller, weaker branches. The thicker your branches are at the point where they attach to the trunk, the more likely they are to withstand the weight of winter conditions. Annual pruning increases the amount of fruit you will get and keeps plants manageable. Regular pruning will maintain a continuous supply of new wood, help the bush keep a bushy shape and also encourages the production of large fruits.

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Question:
Any helpful hints on trimming our grape vines?

Answer:
Before discussing how to prune, let's take a look at the reasons for pruning:

  1. Prune grape vines to keep them at a manageable size.
  2. Pruning is done to direct the energy of the vine into producing fruit instead of stems and leaves.
  3. Prune to keep the fruit growing close to the main stem. This way the sap doesn't have to travel far to produce fruit.
  4. In order for fruit to ripen, pruning needs to be done in order to let in sunlight. Unlike most other fruits, grapes do not continue to ripen after being picked from the vine. Thus, it is essential for the grapes to get enough sunlight on the vine to fully ripen.

To reshape an old, overgrown vine, work when it is dormant. This would include anytime after the leaves have dropped off in the fall but before the buds begin to swell in the spring. Make sure the temperature is above freezing when pruning. Choose a main trunk and remove all of the competing-size stems. Next choose two canes on each side (these signify this year's growth) and mark them. These canes will bear the fruit in the current season. Continue to cut back two more canes on each side and leave two buds on each cane. Cut beyond the swollen nodal area where buds come from. The remaining spurs will turn into the bearing canes for the next growing season. Now the fun begins! Prune out everything except the spurs and marked canes. You'll want to shorten the flagged canes to about ten fruit buds each for best productivity. Then tie them loosely to support wires. Now the vines should be in good shape to bear fruit, and you can start a routine of annual pruning to remove the old wood.

When doing your annual pruning, always prune your grape vines when they are dormant. An advantage of waiting until early spring to prune is that you can remove any winter injury at the same time. If the grape vine is basically ornamental, and you only want a few grapes hanging from it for effect, simply prune to keep it from becoming too overgrown. If you want looks and fruit, you will need to plan to prune annually to get rid of all wood over one year old. Each year cut back part of the year-old wood also and leave only enough to cover the support and produce fruit the following year. Throughout the year you will want to restrict vigorous growth by pinching or pruning back surplus shoots as they develop.

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Question:
How and when do we go about pruning Hollywood Cypress? We have four, and they are starting to get too close to the house.

Answer:
You can reshape your Cypresses to fit into your landscaping by shortening the branches back to either to a lateral branch or a point where leaves persist. Keep in mind that when pruning your Cypresses, they will be slow to begin new growth. Generally, Cypress trees do not need much pruning, other than to remove competing lead branches in early to mid-spring. Always remove dead and diseased branches as soon as you notice them. Once the trees have reached the size you want, do regular pruning to maintain that size instead of letting them get overgrown.

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Question:
I have two peach and two plum trees in my garden that are three years old. The nurseryman told me to let them go for the first three years then prune them back. How do I do this?

Answer:
Both peach and plum trees should be pruned to maintain an open center. If the trees have experienced winter damage, prune off the damaged wood in the early spring. This will allow the wounds to close faster as growth begins. In the early spring you should also be able to see how many flower buds have survived the cold weather. Using thinning cuts also helps keep the center of the tree open. Be sure to thin the fruit on both types of trees. This thinning increases the size and quality of the fruit, and it prevents limbs from breaking under the heavy weight of the fruit. Don't let these fruit trees branch too close to the ground. The best fruit often grows at the top of the trees. Keep the tops of trees low, so they are easily accessible.

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Question:
How can I prune Penstemons so that they grow upright and not become a groundcover?

Answer:
The best way to encourage your Penstemon shrub to grow with an upright habit is to cut it back each year. In early spring, prune back hard stems with winter damage. After the shrub has flowered, shorten the flowered stems by half. This will prevent seed production but will encourage further flowering.

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Question:
I have two four-foot pomegranate trees the produce a few flowers but no fruit. How can I prune and care for them?

Answer:
One thing you must do for fruit production on your pomegranate trees is to remove all suckers. Cut them down to the ground. Flowers develop on two- to three-year-old wood. Mature plants need to be lightly pruned annually to remove old unproductive wood. This regular pruning will stimulate new growth and thin out excess fruit. Be careful not to over prune the trees, as this will further reduce your crops.

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Question:
My 10- to 15-year-old Liquidambar tree has been severely pruned, leaving just three feet at the very top. Will the branches and tree ever grow back again and how long will it take if so?

Answer:
Remove lower branches on a Liquidambar tree in order to encourage the tree to grow taller. Generally, a Liquidambar tree is left to reach its natural shape on the top. Pruning is done when the tree is dormant (from late autumn to early spring) to space branches and to remove diseased and competing branches. The tree should regain is natural shape, but it is hard to predict how long that will take. It depends on the weather, location, root system, nearby competing roots, etc. Give your Liquidambar time, and don't hesitate to ask your gardener why he/she took such drastic measures while pruning. Maybe the tree needed to be rejuvenated or there was a lot of diseased wood.

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Question:
The leaves on my five-foot ficus benjamina seem to die and drop off, but the tree continues to grow. Would pruning stimulate more foliage on the lower branches? And when and how often should I prune? Also when is it all right to repot now or wait until spring?

Answer:
It is normal for the lower leaves on your ficus benjamina to drop off. Moving the pot, a draft or a change in temperature can also increase leaf droppage. Cutting back stems at the desired height should help it produce new, compact growth. Another way to control the height is by cutting the roots down and returning it to the same pot. Pruning once a year in the spring (this would also be the time to repot) should be adequate.

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Question:
We have a weeping cherry that has developed three branches that grow vertically, not in the graceful weeping fashion. I am assuming that these vertical branches need to be removed. When is the best time of year to do that?

Answer:
If your weeping cherry tree is an established tree and has just recently developed the three vertical branches, they need to be removed. This can be done at any time of the year. Any weeping tree needs a strong central leader and a few other strong upper branches to grow tall and begin to arch in order to support the long weeping twigs. If your tree is still young, prune it to keep one central stem and a few good side ones. Prune your weeping cherry in late summer or fall, when the sap won't bleed as much. Continually remove water sprouts from the branches, as well as any suckers at the base of the tree. When pruning, always remove the entire stem. If you don't cut them all the way to their starting point, it will produce an unattractive twiggy growth. Once your branches start to trail the ground and get in the way, the tips may be pruned.

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Question:
How do I prune a one-year-old dwarf Lisbon lemon tree to shape it?

Answer:
Before I answer your specific questions, I would like to recommend you check out our article on pruning citrus trees. It may answer some of your questions.

It would be a good idea to start pruning your lemon tree now. Choose three or four upper laterals to be the main branches. These branches should be about equal in length, and they make crotch angles of at least 40 degrees to the main stem. Shorten these leaders to about 12 inches in length. You also need to pinch out the low shoots that develop on the stem. Don't worry about single leaves that develop on the stem.

As your tree develops further, you will need to shorten the branch leaders by one-third of their growth. Then tip-prune the strong side shoots by three or four leaves. You will need to cut off side shoots that grow across other shoots or into the center of the bush. Again, remove any shoots that develop on the main trunk.

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Question:
How do I prune and care for my 10-year-old flowering crab apple tree? Some of the fruit is still on and has dried up right on the tree.

Answer:
Start pruning your crab apple tree by removing limbs that are diseased, overcrowded, poorly placed, dead or damaged. Make all of these cuts cleanly with a sharp pruning saw. Cut the branches back to the trunk or originating limb. Also, remove one of any two limbs that rub against each other or are crossing. Water sprouts and suckers need to be cut off as soon as you notice them. As the tree matures, it may grow top heavy and possibly develop drooping branches. You can deal with this situation by pruning so the lower half of the tree has the densest foliage. You can also help keep the tree open to light and air with thinning cuts in the crown. If you need to restore the symmetry of the crown of the tree, use mostly thinning cuts. Do your heavy pruning in the late fall and winter. Also pull off the dried fruit left on your tree branches in the late winter. In the spring, remove any winter-damaged branches.

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Question:
The branches of my large tangerine tree are close to the breaking point due to too much fruit. How and when should I prune it? I live in central Texas and just picked all the fruit.

Answer:
The best time to prune a tangerine tree is just before the start of spring growth.

To rejuvenate the tangerine tree and get it back to a reasonable size, you will need to do some drastic pruning. Keep in mind that this may delay fruiting in the next couple of growing seasons. Cut all major limbs to 1-foot long stubs. Then remove any twiggy growth that remains. Be sure to paint all the newly exposed bark white to prevent sunscald. As the tree starts to grow back and reaches the size and shape you want, be sure to do regular pruning (just before spring growth begins) to maintain the appropriate size.

For more ideas on pruning citrus trees, check out our article on pruning citrus trees.

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Question:
Three years ago I topped my mature Birch tree at 12 feet flat, and that year it did well. Now we have numerous vertical spires growing straight up. What is the best way to prune it?

Answer:
My first recommendation would be to consider having the tree professionally pruned.

If you decide you want to tackle the project yourself, you still may want to consult an arborist. Birch trees generally do not tolerate hard pruning, such as topping it off flat. By cutting the top flat, you have changed the form of the tree, as you can tell with the new vertical spires. It will take some patient work and planning to help the tree recover. Severely damaged trees can sometimes be saved, but once again, I would recommend seeking a professional for more detailed advice in this case.

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Question:
How hard can you cut back a privet hedge?

Answer:
Privet hedges that need to be rejuvenated due to overgrowth or bare sections at the bottom can be cut back very hard. A privet should rebound quickly if you cut it back to within two or three inches of the ground.

Keep in mind that cutting it back so hard will destroy the privet's screening ability. You may choose to rejuvenate the hedge over a three-year period, cutting back one-third of the stems to the ground each year.

Whichever method you choose, remember the hedge will not look very good while it is being rejuvenated. With two years of hard pruning and then three to four years of gradual rejuvenation, it will look better than it did before you started.

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Question:
I have a three-year-old Carpathian Walnut tree. The main stem died over the first winter, and all I have is side branches, so it's looking like a bush. Do I just leave it alone and let it get taller, or what?

Answer:
If the main stem (leader) is dead on your Carpathian Walnut tree, you need to establish a new leader for the tree. Cut off a healthy branch at the point it joins the dead leader. Tie this healthy branch to the dead leader from just below the point of damage. Use a vertical splint made of bamboo or wood to support the new leader. Attach the splint, dead leader and new leader with twine. If the trunk won't support the splint alone easily, tie the splint to a stout stake, which has been driven into the ground. Cut off the dead leader just above where the new one has been attached. You will need to leave the splint in place until the new leader is able to support itself. This may take a year or two.

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Question:
I have a mature Hass Avocado tree that stands alone. Are they self-pollinating or how can I pollinate a tree like that?

Answer:
It is possible that your lone Hass Avocado Tree may be able to self-pollinate. It would need to have blossoms which are receptive to pollen in the morning and have others that are receptive to it in the afternoon. It may also help to house bees nearby. Keep in mind that Avocado trees take eight to ten years before they will bear fruit. Also, bees will not pollinate during windy or rainy weather.

The best advice may be to plant another Avocado tree nearby to allow for cross-pollination. You cannot pollinate the tree yourself, but you can provide an environment that will encourage it.

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Question:
How do I prune a weeping birch tree? We have some upright growth. Does it need to be trained to weep?

Answer:
One of the most important things to keep in mind is that birches are bleeders. Be sure to prune before the sap starts to flow in late winter, or the cuts will not heal well.

A Weeping Birch is usually top grafted at a height of six or seven feet. While your tree is young, prune to one central stem with a few good side branches. Continue to remove branches below the grafting line. If you need to remove a branch, remove the whole branch outside the branch collar (On a birch the collar is easy to locate because there usually is a blackened line running down the trunk at the spot where the branch is joined to the trunk. This line indicates the location of the branch collar.). Otherwise cutting a branch back partway will produce a twiggy growth. Trailing branches may be trimmed to a bud or side shoot if they are in the way.

In order to encourage the growth of a main branch strong enough to support the current and future weeping branches, a bamboo cane or other stake should support young trees. You should not need to train the branches to weep if the tree has been grafted properly. The upright growth should start to weep over to the sides once it has reached the optimal height.

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Question:
When is the proper time to prune a Hemlock?

Answer:
Hemlocks should be pruned before growth begins in late winter/early spring. Pruning may also be repeated in midsummer if it is necessary to retain the shape you wish.

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Question:
My honey locust tree is about 15 to 18 feet tall, and is very tall and gangly. Will it branch out at the top on its own, or what is the best way to prune it?

Answer:
A Honey Locust should be kept to one central branch for as long as possible. Generally, this type of tree does not require too much pruning, except for cosmetic reasons. When pruning is chosen for this tree, the basal pruning method is usually followed.

Start pruning your tree by removing any dried-out or dead limbs. The lower limbs tend to get dried out. You can remove all of these lifeless limbs at any time of the year without damaging the tree. The rest of the pruning should be done in late summer, and do it gradually. As a guideline, never cut off more than a fifth of the tree in one season. Cutting off more than that will be a shock to the tree.

In order to encourage your tree to branch out on top (to create a mushroom or umbrella style) you can remove the basal limbs. This will keep the base open and bare. You can also remove the top straggly limbs to encourage wide growth on top. And if your tree appears lopsided, you can trim the branches to make it appear more even - just always keep the one-third guideline in mind and never cut off more than one-third of the branches during a growing season.

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Question:
How do you get starts off rose plants?

Answer:
Probably the easiest way to start new plants from your existing rose plants is to take a green cutting. The best time to take a cutting is early/middle summer.

You need to cleanly cut a six to eight inch length of cane underneath the eyes (buds). Then remove all of the leaves, except the topmost two. Next, dip each cutting into rooting powder (available in stores and garden centers). Then stick the cuttings about two inches apart into a container filled with a growing medium such as Perlite. Place the cuttings slightly at an angle, right up to the base of the leaves. Press in the cuttings and then water them.

You will want to cover the container with a plate of glass and aerate it from time to time. The container should be placed in a bright but not sunny place. If after about six weeks roots have formed, transplant the plants into a pot with a somewhat more nourishing compost-potting soil mixture or garden soil. To over winter, place your pots in a cold frame or plant the cuttings outside and protect them from frost with pine branches.

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Question:
How do I train Wisteria to look like a tree?

Answer:
Even though you would like your Wisteria vine to grow to look like a tree, you will need to provide support for the main branches because they do become heavy when the branches grow during the year.

Let your young vine grow unpruned until it has reached the size you desire. In the winter, you need to thin out all new growth to the second bud. When spring comes, remove all leafless shoots. You will want to prune side branches to two or three buds and leave the spurs. In the summer remove leafless shoots. Then shorten the lateral branches by half.

For the first three years of growth, train your Wisteria to a support with one truck and keep several evenly spaced main stems. Be careful not to prune too severely at one time. This will cause excessive foliage growth and limit the amount of flowers. Remove low branches to encourage growth and strength of higher branches.

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Question:
The leaves on my pear tree have started to turn black and wilt. Can I do anything about it?

Answer:
It sounds like your pear tree has been hit by a plague called fire blight. This is a bacterial disease that causes the leaves and twigs to blacken, so they appear burned. The leaves may also curl (wilt) over into a 'shepherd's crook'shape.

The leaves and twigs get the disease from insects who enter the flowers during springtime. The best way to prevent the disease is by choosing a resistant variety. It also helps to keep the tree plenty moist, especially during blossom time and when the fruit is ripening. Using mulch around the base of the tree will help hold in moisture and may also prevent too-early flowering.

Prune your tree lightly. This will avoid producing vigorous new growth that is more susceptible to blight.

Since your tree has already been hit by fire blight, you will need to prune out the affected shoots at least several inches below the damaged area. Be sure to sterilize your clippers in a chlorine solution between cuts and destroy the cuttings by burying or burning them. If your tree is badly damaged, it may need to be replaced. Professional arborists may be able to use an antibiotic spray to get rid of the disease.

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Question:
How long does it take to grow honeysuckles? How should they be pruned?

Answer:
It's really hard to say how long it would take to grow a honeysuckle. It all depends on the condition of the seedling, the weather and care it receives. Under normal circumstances and with proper maintenance, keeping your honeysuckle from becoming overgrown is more of a problem than having it die.

Whether you have a honeysuckle vine or shrub, prune regularly to remove any dead wood, and thin overgrowth to maintain shape and let the sun reach all of the branches.

If you have an older honeysuckle that is totally overgrown, twiggy and in poor health, start a three-year pruning project. Cut back a third of the old stems to the ground each year until all that you have left is new young growth that grows out of the base. This is much easier on the plant than removing all of the old stems at once. You will be able to tell which are the old stems because they are thick and have shaggy, rough bark. The new branches that emerge are thin and smooth.

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Question:
I have a young Baptisa Austrailis blue false indigo shrub. It is only about 1 1/2 feet high and hasn't bloomed yet. Should I prune it?

Answer:
The blue false indigo shrub is a very slow-growing variety. Prune the shrub in the early spring by cutting back the stems to just above ground level. Remove any dead or weak stems. Maintaining this type of pruning while it is young will help the shrub grow bushier.

If your shrub is not strong enough to support itself, stake it - especially if it is not in full sun. It is not unusual for a new shrub to lack blossoms during its first few years. Regular pruning will encourage new growth, and better the chances of blossoms.

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Question:
Is there a weed killer I can use that will not harm an Ixora hedge? Also, what type of fertilizer will help get more flowers?

Answer:
The safest method to remove the weeds is to dig them up or pull up the weeds and their root systems. To reduce the number of weeds around your hedge, you need to keep a thick layer of mulch around the base of the hedges. This will prevent the weeds from getting sunlight and nutrients. You need to apply fertilizer to your hedges in early spring, mid-summer, and late summer. Use an acid fertilizer such as 4-8-8 and look for the addition of minor elements made especially for Gardenia and Ixora.

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Question:
I have Rhododendrons that flowered several months ago; the flowers died, dried up and are now hanging on. I would like to know what and when I should do to them.

Answer:
If your Rhododendrons are done blooming, you can go ahead and pick off the dried flowers. For more information about deadheading, check out our article on the topic. http://www.orchardsedge.com/deadheading.html

Rhododendrons usually require little pruning, although most can tolerate being cut back hard. You do need to remove suckers, dead wood and any damaged or diseased wood. Older plants can become congested and may suffer dieback if enough light does not reach the center of the plant. The best time to prune your Rhododendrons is in the early summer after the shrub has flowered.

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Question:
I have a potted Rosewood tree. Should I put the pot in the garage near a lighted window for the winter or in my dark shed? I live in Buffalo, NY. When should I bring it in?

Answer:
With the cold weather you need to endure in Buffalo, it would be an excellent idea to move your potted rose tree into a shelter. You could also plant the tree outside and top-dress it with a few inches of mulch. Either way, you need to prevent the sides of the pot from suffering from the cold and winds of winter. If you move the pot inside, keep it out of the sun.

The winter sun may cause great tensions in the tissues between the sunny and the shady sides of a succulent rose cane. It is possible the cane may then rupture inside and then die back. Plan to bring it into shelter soon after the first good frost. Don't worry if leaves are still on the branches. You should check your rose tree about once a month and water it lightly. You don't want it to dry out completely, but you also don't want to water it too much. Too much water may cause the plant to rot or mold.

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Question:
What is a rose collar?

Answer:
A rose collar is something that fits around a rose plant. It is used to hold winter protection material in place. You can make a rose collar out of newspaper, cardboard, brown paper sacks or even fiberglass screening. It goes from the ground to the height of the material being used. Then place mounds of dirt, straw, leaves, peat moss, manure or whatever to winter protect on the inside, and the collar keeps it in place to protect the rose from continual freezing and thawing during the cold weather.

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Question:
I have a small evergreen sapling. How do I prune it to keep it healthy and small enough for our garden area?

Answer:
As your young evergreen grows, you will need to remove any dead, diseased or damaged growth as it develops. Once the evergreen has had a good growing season in which to establish its planting site and has become dormant it can then be pruned further to develop shape. In general, the spring is the best time to prune an evergreen. Be careful not to prune your evergreen too early in the spring or too late in the summer. Evergreens produce soft new growth that may be damaged by frost or cold wind.

When pruning a young evergreen, the object is to ensure a healthy plant and to develop its symmetrical shape. Start by removing any cold-damaged growth as well as any badly positioned stems. Next, cut off any weak or straggly stems, and lightly tip-prune any overlong stems to add balance to the shrub's outline. You also need to remove shoots to thin out congested areas.

If you need to contain growth or to make your evergreen smaller, plan to prune just before growth begins, cutting stems back to side branches within the plant.

As your evergreen grows, keep in mind that you never want to cut off more than one-third of its total green material at one time. And make sure you make the trimming an annual event. If you miss even one year of trimming, it may be difficult to get it back into shape.

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Question:
I would like my eight-foot Eugenia go grow to about 15 feet. How should I prune it to encourage healthy, thick growth?

Answer:
It would be best to start shaping the Eugenia now by clipping the tops and sides. By doing this, the hedge will grow in a tight pattern and close to the ground. Be sure to keep the sides sheared to keep them manageable. Also, work to ensure the top part of the Eugenia never gets wider than the lower section. It is important for the lower section to get as much light as it can get. Trimming the tops and sides should not slow down growth. Usually trimming encourages new growth.

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Question:
I have several neglected raspberry patches with six-foot canes without berries. What is the best way to prune them and turn the mess into bigger berries that are easy to pick?

Answer:
A neglected raspberry patch is not the easiest to deal with. You'll want to dig out suckers and rooted growth. Cut away tangled and old canes. You may be able to salvage some young canes and retrain them to the support. If that's not possible, carefully uproot suckers or layers and use them as new plants.

The most important objective in pruning your raspberry plants is to avoid a bed turning into an impenetrable tangle of thorny canes - which you seem to have, unfortunately. While pruning, be sure to wear a long-sleeved shirt and leather gloves. In the spring, prune out any winterkilled canes at ground level. You'll want to cut back the remaining canes at about chest height. After the harvest, cut back at soil level all the canes that have borne fruit. It should be easy to tell which canes have just fruited because you can see what remains of the little berry clusters after the berries have been picked. If you let the job go or weren't around during the fruiting season, you'll be able to distinguish the old canes because they are darker, with peeling bark. Obviously, you should remove any part of the plant that looks diseased as soon as you spot it.

You don't want your raspberry rows to get any wider than one or two feet. Any wider than that and it's hard to reach to pick the berries. Pull up the suckers that come up between the rows. And thin out the plants within the rows, keeping canes about six inches apart. If you want to support your canes, use posts and horizontal wires to establish a vertical support.

Raspberries bear fruit on biennial canes This means the roots live indefinitely and send up canes each year that generally bear fruit the second season and then die.

It is essential to give your raspberry bushes a constant supply of water while they are growing and especially when they are forming fruit. Use mulch such as salt hay to keep the weeds from working their way into the berry plants'root systems. The mulch will also keep you from having to cultivate the soil. Cultivating may nick the plants'shallow roots. This may promote excess suckers. When it's dry weather, you can increase your yield by laying a soaker hose along the rows. In the early spring, you should top dress with at least a shovel full of compost or rotted manure for every foot of row, or apply a handful of fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to the same area.

Pick your berries only when they are ripe, and don't let them remain on the bush too long. During the harvest, pick at least twice a week and be careful not to squeeze the berries; just pull them off the stem gently.

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Question:
How do I prune some old, neglected grape vines? What kind of pruner do you suggest?

Answer:
Grapes are one of the oldest fruits in cultivation. And your job to bring the vines back to a healthy state is not one of the easiest jobs. Keep in mind that it can be done, but if the vines are badly overgrown, you may need to spread out the work over several years. The goal would be to eventually get the vine back to a single trunk with only four strong, well-paced branches. At that point, you will be able to train it into a manageable system.

Before discussing how to prune, let's take a look at the reasons for pruning:

  • Prune grape vines to keep them at a manageable size.
  • Pruning is done to direct the energy of the vine into producing fruit instead of stems and leaves.
  • Prune to keep the fruit growing close to the main stem. This way the sap doesn't have to travel far to produce fruit.
  • In order for fruit to ripen, pruning needs to be done in order to let in sunlight. Unlike most other fruits, grapes do not continue to ripen after being picked from the vine. Thus, it is essential for the grapes to get enough sunlight on the vine to fully ripen.

To reshape the old, overgrown vine, work when it is dormant. This would include anytime after the leaves have dropped off in the fall but before the buds begin to swell in the spring. Make sure the temperature is above freezing when pruning. Choose a main trunk and remove all of the competing-size stems. Next choose two canes on each side (these signify this year's growth) and mark them. These canes will bear the fruit in the current season. Continue to cut back two more canes on each side and leave two buds on each cane. Cut beyond the swollen nodal area where buds come from. The remaining spurs will turn into the bearing canes for the next growing season. Now the fun begins! Prune out everything except the spurs and marked canes. You'll want to shorten the flagged canes to about ten fruit buds each for best productivity. Then tie them loosely to support wires. Now the vines should be in good shape to bear fruit, and you can start a routine of annual pruning to remove the old wood.

When doing your annual pruning, always prune your grape vines when they are dormant. An advantage of waiting until early spring to prune is that you can remove any winter injury at the same time.

If the grape vine is basically ornamental, and you only want a few grapes hanging from it for effect, simply prune to keep it from becoming too overgrown. If you want looks and fruit, you will need to plan to prune annually to get rid of all wood over one year old. Each year cut back part of the year-old wood also and leave only enough to cover the support and produce fruit the following year. Throughout the year you will want to restrict vigorous growth by pinching or pruning back surplus shoots as they develop.

You asked for a recommendation on the appropriate pruners. Scissors -style pruners or anvil-style pruners should work well for you. For the old wood on your grandmother's vine, a sharp pair of anvil-style pruners may be your best bet for cutting through the old, dead wood and would be very useful for a variety of other pruning projects.

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Question:
Can you give me information about pruning lemon tahiti, mandarin and orange trees?

Answer:
Citrus trees usually need little pruning except to remove broken, dead or weak branches and to thin twiggy growth. It is possible to rejuvenate an older, established citrus tree.

Citrus trees usually respond well to hard pruning, when necessary. For trees having some fruit on the branches year round, prune when there is the least fruit on the tree. Start by removing dead, injured, diseased and crossing branches, suckers and branches growing downward. When removing dead branches, reduce the chance of disease by cutting back into living wood. At the next pruning, remove weak branches and overcrowded growth. Never remove more than one-fourth of the tree at one time. Keep in mind that, most citrus trees have a limited supply of carbohydrates in their stem tissues. Excessive pruning at one time may set back growth and fruiting.

After the tree is back in good shape (it may take a couple of years), continue to thin as needed. You can also cut back long branches at the tips to promote shoots nearer the center of the tree. If more than one shoot arises around a cut, choose the one or two best placed shoots to develop as the main branches.

The bark of citrus trees may be susceptible to sunburn. If your pruning exposes the main branches or trunks, to sunlight, paint them white for protection. Use standard tree paint or a white latex paint (thinned 50 percent with water).

Lemon trees have a rather gawky growth habit, naturally growing long stems that easily break under the weight of fruit. Harvesting is also difficult due to the interlace of stems. Lemon trees need frequent pruning by lightly thinning and shortening stems.

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Question:
My Bridal Wreath has become bushy and green on top, with lots of bare and thick wood. How should I prune and feed it?

Answer:
In general, it is best to thin out up to one-third of the oldest stems and remove overcrowded growth of a Bridal Wreath Hedge (Spirea Prunifolia) each year, right after the spring flowers bloom. These plants, however, also rebound quickly from and can withstand rejuvenation pruning, and can be cut to within a few inches of the ground if it is necessary. Cutting back a hedge to a few inches high can temporarily destroy its screening ability. Thus, it may be best to rejuvenate a hedge over a few years, cutting one-third of the stems to the ground each year.

As far as what to feed the hedge: After pruning, help the hedge recover and thrive by feeding it a mixture of dried manure (about 20 lbs. for the average-sized hedge) and 2-3 cups of garden lime. Scatter this in a circle a foot away from the plant; just before a light spring rain will wash it into the soil.

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Question:
My Chinese Elm hedge is very leafy on top but very sparse on the bottom three to four feet. How can I prune it to have it fill in on the bottom?

Answer:
Hedges with bare areas near the ground were probably pruned improperly when the plant was very young. There is not much you can do to fill in the bare spots, short of cutting the whole hedge almost to ground level. Then you will need to prune the hedge plant as if it were a newly planted hedge. You will need to head back the stems to make them branch before they begin their second season of growth.. During the third season, you will need to start shearing the plant to the desired form, even though it is not yet full size.

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Question:
Can you tell me the best way to cultivate a Cypress Tree?

Answer:
Plant container-grown trees in early fall or mid-spring in any well-drained soil in sun. Prune to maintain a single leader in spring.

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Question:
When should I plant and prune my Junipers?

Answer:
Plant in early spring to mid-spring in ordinary well-drained garden soil in full sun. In summer keep young plants well watered in dry periods; once established, they are drought tolerant. No pruning is generally required. If you need to shape or remove awkward growth, do it in the spring or summer. If you want to promote more bushiness, trim recent growth in the early spring. If you want to limit the size of your juniper, cut back all of the season's growth in summer.

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Question:
Can you tell me a little about the Italian Cypress? Will new trees grow well in a cool climate?

Answer:
This is a medium-sized, narrowly columnar tree with steeply ascending branches and dark green foliage. It is familiar in the Mediterranean region, and young plants are susceptible to injury in cold areas.

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Question:
Can you tell me a little about Hollywood Junipers?

Answer:
This is a vast group of coniferous trees and both upright and prostrate shrubs. Juvenile foliage is sharp and needle-like; mature foliage is softer and scale-like. Some plants have only one or the other; other plants have both. Foliage ranges from light to dark green, to blue-green, to blue or silver and often turns purplish in winter. Female plants produce small, round, blueberries that are used to flavor gin.

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Question:
How can I best use an Italian Cypress?

Answer:
Use the Italian Cypress in hedges and windbreaks. The shade density is dense, and the tree can grow to 60 feet tall and 3 feet wide. It is quick growing, but grows best where summers are long, hot and dry.

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Question:
Please tell me about the Hollywood juniper's unusual growth pattern. Does it need pruning?

Answer:
The Hollywood Juniper grows into a broad cone shape. Although the main body of its foliage becomes as thick as if it had been sheared, delicately twisted branches emerge gracefully all around the plant. It may grow 15 feet tall in 25 years, often leaning to one side in a picturesque manner, and should not be pruned.

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Question:
How should I prune and overgrown Ixora hedge?

Answer:
After thinning the bushes in late winter or early spring, you'll want to cut all remaining stems back to about 12 inches from the ground just below them.

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Question:
How do I prune my 10 to 12 foot Sugar Maple tree? It is very thick with branches. When should I prune it?

Answer:
Maple trees may be pruned in the summer, fall or early winter. When pruning your sugar maple, you'll want to preserve the central leader and keep scaffolds widely spaced. Remove the crossing limbs and dead branches.

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Question:
I have some beautiful rose bushes in my yard. They started blooming in early May with very large fragrant flowers. Now the leaves are getting brown spots, the flowers are smaller and turning brown at the edges but the plants seem to be growing exponentially. What should I do? Also, how and when should I prune these rose bushes?

Answer:
In the summer, you can still thin out your rose bushes to stimulate development of new growth. Do this pruning immediately after flowering. You will want to remove canes that are too close together or crossing. Cut back the remainder to about a third of their last-year's growth. When making the cuts, cut on a slight angle no more than .5 cm (1/4 inch) above the bud. Long spindly stems often cause smaller flowers. Thus, pruning is needed.

The brown spots on the leaves may indicate the plants have a disease called Black Spot. The brown spots on the leaves often occur among canes that have been attacked by aphids or scale. The aphids and scale excrete sugar-containing juice that is colonized by the spots on the leaves. To prevent these spots, spray the rose bushes with cold water, soft soap solutions (1 tablespoon baking soda, a few drops of soap or mineral oil and one gallon of water) or insecticide. Spray the undersides as well as the top surfaces of the leaves. To be most effective, spray every week or so. If you notice that only certain stems have spotted leaves, it may benefit the bush to remove the diseased stems.

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Question:
How do I prune a Japanese maple?

Answer:
Most maple trees are easy to grow and do not require much attention. Your Japanese maple should be grown in a rich, moist, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Stake your tree until the trunk is well developed. Twiggy growth needs to be removed from the center as it develops. Prune your Japanese maple in the late summer or fall, when the sap is not running. Remove any dead, awkward or crossing branches.

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Question:
I have a gardenia that still has leaves after keeping it inside all winter. The branches on my gardenia are long and little leaves at the top but better newer leaves on the lower six inches. Should I prune the taller less attractive stems or will they fill in as spring progresses?

Answer:
Pruning the taller stems should encourage new growth on the top. Thin out any twiggy or diseased branches to promote a more bushy plant. Since you have your gardenia indoors, you can prune it now.

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Question:
How do you prune camellias?

Answer:
Camellias usually require little pruning except to shape the plant. On young plants, you need to thin the flower buds to channel energy into growth. On older plants you can thin some flower buds to increase the size of the remaining flowers. Prune the stems just after the flowers have faded. When your camellia is young, if it is too spreading for your taste, you can cut back some of the side branches to encourage vertical growth. Also, if you feel the plant is too gangly, you can head some of the stems to the bases of the previous years'growth to induce branching. If you need to renovate an overgrown camellia, do this by cutting the whole bush to the bare stems. Do this all at once or over a couple of seasons. The camellia reticulata may not grow back after this type of drastic pruning.

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Question:
The branches on our three-year-old willow are touching the ground already. Can we cut back the lower branches right to the trunk?

Answer:
You can cut the lower branches of your willow tree back to the trunk. It is also possible to shorten just the ends of the branches. Prune your willow in late summer or fall because willow trees do bleed sap when not dormant.

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Question:
How do I prune and care for a mature Japanese maple tree?

Answer:
Japanese maple trees require a rich, moist and well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. These trees also grow best in light shade in hot climates. A young Japanese maple needs to be staked until the trunk is well developed. Remove the twiggy growth from the center as it develops. Prune your Japanese maple when dormant and the sap is no longer running. In your regular maintenance pruning, remove dead, awkward or crossing limbs.

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Question:
Could you tell me about caring for a dwarf Lisbon Lemon tree--frequency of watering and fertilizing?

Answer:
As far as watering and fertilizing goes, keep in mind that citrus trees'roots are fairly shallow and extend quite a bit beyond the spread of its branches. In your dry climate, you will need to give the roots a good soaking on a regular basis, not just a steady trickle. Citrus trees also thrive with a good nitrogen supply. Use a top dressing with compost; well-rotted manure, blood meal or cottonseed meal also works well. You can also use a low-release organic fertilizer several times during the year. If your lemon tree is in a sandy soil, you will need to provide a heavier feeding because in the sand the nutrients leach out easily. In dry climates, they also many not leach out fast enough. Avoid using an inorganic fertilizer whose residues may accumulate and may make the soil too alkaline.

As with most trees, it is important to keep the area around your lemon tree free from weeds that may compete with the roots. Even mowed grass bordering too close to the tree may steal nutrients away from your lemon tree's roots. Consider using a ring of mulch around the base of your lemon tree to hold in the moisture. Do not place the mulch right around the trunk because brown-rot gummosis may develop. Be sure to protect your lemon tree's delicate bark from sunscald by applying a layer of white latex paint or using a tree wrap. This is especially important out in the desert.

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Question:
We have a mature weeping cherry tree, about six years old, grafted. How should we prune it to control the upward direction of the branches at the top of tree? It is about 15 to 20 feet high.

Answer:
If your established weeping cherry tree has just recently developed branches growing in a upward direction, they need to be removed. This can be done at any time of the year.

Any weeping tree needs a strong central leader and a few other strong upper branches to grow tall and begin to arch in order to support the long weeping twigs. Young trees should be pruned to keep one central stem and a few good side ones. Prune your weeping cherry in late summer or fall, when the sap won't bleed as much. Continually remove water sprouts from the branches, as well as any suckers at the base of the tree. When pruning, always remove the entire stem. If you don't cut them all the way to their starting point, it will produce an unattractive twiggy growth. Once your branches start to trail the ground and get in the way, the tips may be pruned.

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Question:
Can you tell me if a Pin Oak Tree should be pruned?

Answer:
Young Pin Oak Trees should be pruned while still young to encourage a strong central leader. Oak trees tend to develop twiggy growth. Cut side branches to promote the formation of longer branches, and be sure to cut them all the way back to the main branch. Leaving twigs will only produce more dense twigs. Once your tree is mature, it will seldom need pruning, except to remove damaged, diseased or crossing branches.

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Question:
How do I prune old pear trees sending up tall branches, not with spurs?

Answer:
Cut back the branches without spurs to a strong central leader. Pear trees produce most of their fruit on long-lived spurs. Your branches without spurs may be overgrown water sprouts that were not trimmed off earlier. Thin out these spur-less branches in the winter.

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Question:
Can I slice the top off roots of a 60-foot rosewood tree that are above the surface of the ground? What are the long-term effects? Should I root prune?

Answer:
I am going to answer both of your questions together here. Root pruning is done to control the size of a plant. I would not recommend slicing off the tops of the roots that are above the surface. Decay and disease may easily develop in the roots, and end up killing your Rosewood tree.

If you want to control the size of your tree, you can cut into the roots. Make a circular cut just outside the drip line. Cut back the roots that go beyond the circle formed by the outer branches of your tree.

If the exposed roots cause a tripping hazard, are unsightly or get scraped by the lawn mower (these scrapes may be inviting decay into the roots and should be avoided), you may want to consider raising the ground under the tree. Add inches of dirt and then add grass seed, or simply add a ring of thick mulch around the base of your Rosewood tree.

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Question:
When is the best time to prune shrubs and trees--spring vs. fall?

Answer:
Choosing the best time to prune a tree or shrub depends of the variety. As a general rule, trees and shrubs should be pruned when they are dormant in the late fall or winter. Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they have finished flowering.

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Question:
How and when should I prune a five-year-old Bradford pear?

Answer:
Your Bradford pear tree should be pruned to have one strong central leader with side scaffolding branches that are even spaced at wide angles. Care needs to be taken with this type of pear tree to avoid narrow crotches. If this is not done, the limbs will eventually split away from the trunk. This will destroy the tree's shape and make it prone to disease.

While pruning, you also need to remove limbs that are upright, crossing and crowded. Suckers need to be removed to avoid them turning into woody, weak wood.

Pear trees bloom and bear fruit on the sharp, short spurs that grow between its branches. Thin the spurs regularly. Older spurs should be removed occasionally to be replaced by more vigorous young ones. If you end up with too many small fruits set in one year, thin them out to let the remaining fruit grow large and not have to compete for nutrients.

It is generally best to prune pear trees late in the summer. You will stimulate the least amount of re-growth by pruning after the trees have finished growing for the year and have hardened their wood. If you live in an area where there's a chance for winter damage, wait to prune until late winter.

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Question:
We have two sugar time crabapple trees that are nearly nine feet tall. When is the best time to health prune?

Answer:
The best time to prune your crab apple trees is in the early summer. Shearing them heavily at this time will encourage thick bottom growth.

During your pruning, cut back the crossing branches and suckers. By thinning out crossing and rubbing branches, you let in more sunlight and reduce competition for nutrients. Suckers need to be removed because they tend to grow into weak, woody and unproductive growth.

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Question:
We have a dwarf Japanese red maple that hasn't been pruned in two years. When and how should I prune it?

Answer:
Prune your dwarf Japanese red maple in late summer or fall. This is when the sap is no longer running. At this time remove any dead, crossing or awkward limbs. You may also want to remove the twiggy growth that develops in the center of the tree. Leaving this center growth alone will let the tree assume its own eccentric form.

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Question:
I have a small fig tree. Should I screen this in burlap for the winter? Last year was pretty cool with snow and ice. Last fall the tree was about 1 1/2 feet tall. This spring the original limbs were dead but we had new growth.

Answer:
Fig trees are very likely to drop their leaves and appear dead when they have been exposed to a sudden change in location or temperature. Like your tree, they usually respond well with new growth the next spring. In the spring, remove dead limbs that are not sprouting new leaves.

One option for protecting your fig tree from cold winter winds and ice is to keep it in a pot. This will allow you to move it into a garage or basement when the cold weather approaches. Growing the tree in a pot also helps to control the root and tree size.

I know it is possible to wrap fig trees in the winter, but you also have to be careful it doesn't get too warm inside the protection and start new growth before another cold spell hits.

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Question:
When is the best time to prune magnolia trees? Mine needs to be topped and shaped.

Answer:
Prune your magnolia tree after it has bloomed, in the early summer. Be careful when pruning. Magnolias may not always respond well to pruning because the wounds created by pruning do not heal easily. You must remove all dead and diseased wood, as well as suckers and water sprouts. Other than this necessary pruning, let the tree grow with its natural shape and avoid any unnecessary pruning.

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Question:
I have a mature tangerine tree (more than 30 years old). I would like to get a cutting or start from the tree to grow in another area. How is that done?

Answer:
Is it too late to get seeds from the fruit? Starting with seeds may be your best bet for starting a seedling. Squeeze the seeds out of the fruit and them wash them free of pulp and juice. Dry the surface and then plant the seeds in a container or else store them in an airtight container with pulverized charcoal to plant after a short period of time. Do not allow them to dry out completely, or they will not be any good.

If you want to also try with cuttings from the tree, cut off a four to six inch twig evenly across the base. Keep only the three or four upper leaves on the twig. You will need to dip the cutting in a root-inducing hormone. Then stick half of the length of the twig in clean sand. Once roots have developed, the seedling can be transferred to a larger pot.

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Question:
Is it absolutely necessary to prune my lilac bushes before June 10 in order to have a good blooming season next year? I live in Kansas.

Answer:
Lilacs tend to be very hardy and can withstand even mistakes in pruning. Only well established lilac bushes should be pruned. Heavy pruning should be done in early spring before the buds swell. Lighter pruning can be done just after the bushes bloom.

While pruning remove the oldest stems. Keep a few of the new suckers to let them grow to replace the older ones. Be careful not to leave too many suckers, as they tend to rob the plant's energy and may reduce the number of flowers. If you pinch off spent flowers just to the first leaves, this can give you more blooms the following year.

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Question:
How do you prune orange trees? Where do you cut the branches? What time of the year should it be pruned? Should the tree be grafted and if so how do you do that?

Answer:
Orange trees do not require much pruning. If you must prune, do it before active growth begins in late January/early February. Always remove water sprouts and suckers as soon as you notice them. Remove dense branches that are near the base and center of the tree. This will allow the base to receive the maximum amount of sunlight. Also remove branches that arch downward toward the ground or inward toward the trunk, and branches that are weak, twisted, dead or diseased. When cutting, go back to the branch of origin. Cut just outside the branch collar, not flush with the branch.

For more ideas on the care of citrus trees, check out our article on pruning citrus trees. Notice in the article that it says to do your pruning a little at a time, as 'most citrus trees have a limited supply of carbohydrates in their stem tissues. Excessive pruning at one time may set back growth and fruiting.'This is a key element to a healthy citrus tree that bears fruit.

As far as grafting goes, you only need to do this if you want to start a new tree. For information on grafting, check out this website.

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Question:
How do you prune a Yucca tree that has five limbs and has overgrown the height we want it to be?

Answer:
The best time to prune your yucca tree is after the flowering ceases. At that time you can cut the branches back to where they meet other branches or meet the trunk. Hopefully, they will help the tree fit to the size you want it.

If you are cutting long limbs, remember to make several cuts. Cutting a heavy limb right at the trunk may cause it to tear the bark from the stress of the saw.

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Question:
Should clematis flowers be deadheaded and if so how far down?

Answer:
Yes, clematis can be deadheaded to extend its blooming time. You only need to pinch off the spent flowers with your fingers. All that should remain are buds and flowers.

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Question:
I have a full grown olive tree that I would like to shape, trim the top round, bottom flat, like a bowl upside down.. What tool would be best? Branches are less that a quarter-inch in diameter.

Answer:
To reach the tops of your trees I would recommend one of our long-reach pruners, as opposed to a pole saw. Since your branches aren't very thick, you'll get a cleaner cut and an easier cut with a long-reach pruner. Your delicate branches might not be sturdy enough to get a straight cut with a pole saw.

I would recommend cut-and-hold long-reach pruners. These pruners will hold onto the branches once they are cut, so they won't fall on top of you, risking injury.

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Question:
How do I prune and fertilize a peach tree? Has been producing small peaches for the past couple of years and seems to get covered with some sort of mold over the peaches.

Answer:
Peach trees need to be grown in a site with very well drained soil. Without proper drainage, your tree may suffer from crown rot. Peach trees grow best in a soil with 5.5 to 8.0 pH. Fertilize your peach tree in the spring and again in early summer with a 10-10-10 fertilizer. Keep your tree roots covered with mulch during the hot weather.

Peach trees should be pruned yearly to maintain an open center, to eliminate weak or misdirected branch growth. If the trees have experienced winter damage, prune off the damaged wood in the early spring. This will allow the wounds to close faster as growth begins. In the early spring you should also be able to see how many flower buds have survived the cold weather. Using thinning cuts also helps keep the center of the tree open. Be sure to thin the fruit on the trees to about six inches between fruits. Wait to thin the fruit until June to see what the tree naturally drops itself. This thinning increases the size and quality of the fruit and it helps prevent limbs from breaking under the heavy weight of the fruit. Always prune before early summer and start minimizing your watering at this time, too. You don't want to stimulate new growth on the tree that will not have time to harden before winter.

Don't let these peach trees branch too close to the ground. The best fruit often grows at the top of the trees. Keep the tops of trees low, so they are easily accessible.

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Question:
Last fall, a storm with high winds broke off a branch (the major branch on one side) from our pear tree. Should have done something to the stump of the branch?

Answer:
Your pear tree has probably healed itself, but broken branches are ideal locations for diseases and insects to infest your tree. To be on the safe side, you might want to make a clean cut where the branch broke off.

Depending on how much of the branch is left, cut off several parts of the branch before making the cut just outside of the branch collar - never flush with the trunk. Never leave a stub on your trees.

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Question:
How do I prune and fertilize Red Flame Sumacs and Staghorn Sumacs?

Answer:
These shrubs can grow up to 15 feet in height. The time to prune your sumac is during the early spring. Always wear gloves when you prune because the sap on a sumac is toxic. Never burn the wood you cut off.

If you want your sumac to develop into a bush, allow it to develop naturally. Of course, remove any damaged, dead or diseased wood. Also prune out crossing branches. Remove suckers as soon as they develop. This will help avoid a spindly look. Also, cut back one-fourth to one-third of the stems back to the ground each year. This will help produce larger, showier leaves.

As far as fertilizing, choose a good organic fertilizer with nitrogen. Read the package to determine to amount and how often to fertilize.

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Question:
I have three butterfly bushes. They have grown very wide, and I would like to prune them back. When and how should I do this?

Answer:
You should prune your butterfly bushes in late winter or early spring before any new growth has started. You need to cut back all the branches to within six inches of the ground. Deadheading the blossoms as they fade will encourage your bushes to bloom all summer long.

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Question:
When pruning, where do I cut my Asiatic lilies? Below the ovary? How much?

Answer:
Flower bulbs are not my area of expertise, but I can give you a little insight. Most flower bulbs do not require much pruning. If you want to increase the flowering and don't want the plant to go to seed, remove the undeveloped seedpod (ovary) just after the plant has bloomed. Cut just below the seedpod to remove it.

Each fall cut the stems to the ground. Mark the site of the bulb with a stake. If you want to thin out the lilies, dig up the cluster after it is cut down to the ground. Carefully pull the bulbs and roots apart and replant spread apart. Mark each bulb location with a stake.

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Question:
Just wondering how exactly do you deadhead tulips and daffodils.... do you just remove the spent flowers and leaves or do you have to remove part of the stem also?

Answer:
While deadheading tulips and daffodils, simply remove the spent flowers. You can also remove the stem, but don't remove any of the foliage. The foliage is what is sending down energy for the follow year's bulb. Just leave the foliage until it totally dries up and starts to pull away from the bulb on its own.

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Question:
I have two Ramapo rhododendrons. After they bloom should I deadhead them like you would other rhododendrons?

Answer:
Yes, it is a good idea to deadhead your rhododendrons. Pinch off at the base above the lateral growth buds. This encourages a healthier plant and more buds the following year, and it will also look nicer without the dried flowers on the plant.

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Question:
How do I prune a Spathiphyllum houseplant? I trimmed the dead heads off, but the yellow stems didn't look so great so I also cut them to just above where the stems were still green, about halfway up from their bases. Is that the right way to prune them?

Answer:
The Spathiphyllum is a very hardy houseplant. Generally, I would recommend just snipping off the dried flowers. Cutting a little lower shouldn't do any harm to your plant. Next time, try just removing the dried flower and give it a little time before cutting off more.

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Question:
I have a 60-foot Magnificent Ash tree that drops all its leaves about January 1 and the puts them back on very quickly with blossoms that drop in a couple of weeks. It needs to be pruned and topped. I live in an area that is warm year round--very few days of frost--and hot and dry in the summer and mild and only marginally wet in the winter. When should I prune this tree?

Answer:
The best time to prune your Magnificent Ash is when it is dormant, which would be late winter or early spring. Since your weather is nice and warm for most of the year, I would recommend pruning during the coldest time of the year. The time NOT to prune is in the rapid growing season, which could be late spring to well into fall in your area.

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Question:
I am going to trim my trees and am wondering where to cut the branches. It looks like in the past they were lopped off behind where the branches of new growth come out. Can I trim them beyond the previous trimmed new growth branches or where they have forked?

Answer:
You may find some helpful information in our article on pruning mature trees.

It should be fine to prune beyond the previously trimmed new growth. As mentioned in the article, the best idea is to thin out the branches instead of doing any drastic pruning. It is best to cut branches back to their point of origination (cutting outside the shoulder ring). If the branches are large, make several cuts to make the cut less stressful on the tree and reduce the risk of bark tearing.

Always follow the one-third rule, and never cut off more than one-third of the growth in one growing season.

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Question:
My rosemary plant that is approximately five years old. I have never really pruned it except for pinching it for cooking. I bring it indoors for the winter. At first it dries out and browns out, then it seems to perk up a bit. I need to prune it to make it healthier, bushier, and have a better overall appearance. Can I prune it now? How do I do it?

Answer:
I hope you have checked out our article "The Joys of Herb Gardening".

It is good to let these plants go through a few weeks of freezing night temperatures. Once you bring them indoors, they will end their period of dormancy and should start with fresh new growth.

Prune your Rosemary plant anytime. An occasional cutback is good for this variety. Start by removing old and damaged branches. Cut back and reshape as desired. These cuttings can be dried or preserved to be used in cooking at a later date.

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Question:
When is the best time to prune Bartlett pear trees? How is it done?

Answer:
The best time to do major pruning on your pear trees is during the dormant season, before active growth begins in the spring. Generally, it is not recommended to heavily prune pear trees. The more you prune, the greater the chance that fire blight will develop (the leaves and branches will look as if they have been burned by fire), and it delays fruit production.

Set a three-year plan to get your pear trees into the shape and size you want. Start with a plan for your pruning project - envision how you want the trees to look. The first year remove limbs that are diseased, damaged, upright, crossing and crowded. Suckers need to be removed as soon as you notice them to avoid them turning into woody, weak wood. The next year, thin out the tree some more and bring down some of the height. The third year, thin out the trees some more and cut down to the desired height.

Always remove pruned branches from the area of your other trees. Burning the branches is a great way to prevent the spread of disease and infestation.

You can avoid ending up with too much fruit that goes to waste by thinning the fruit on the branches after it has set. Hand thin the fruits to leave at least 5 inches between the fruit. This will reduce your harvest and increase the health of the remaining fruit. It is especially a good idea to thin fruit on the high, hard-to-reach branches.

This website may be helpful. It includes diagrams showing where to cut.

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Question:
Could you tell me about pruning willow trees?

Answer:
When pruning a willow tree, to goal is create one strong central leader and strong upper branches. This will encourage branches to grow tall and arch so they will be able to support the long, weeping twigs. If your tree is still young, prune to one central stem. Keep a few good branches on the side. Continue to remove lower side branches.

The best times to prune willows trees are in the late summer or early fall. This variety bleeds sap, so it is important to prune when the sap is bleeding the least. Be sure to remove water suckers on the branches and suckers at the base of the plant as soon as you notice them. When pruning a branch, be sure to remove the entire branch to avoid twiggy growth. If you have trailing branches that are in the way, prune them at the ends.

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Question:
How do you prune a pomegranate tree?

Answer:
The pruning your pomegranate tree is going to need most is to remove suckers from the crown of the tree. This is important especially when the tree is young in order to maintain a strong single trunk. Once the main trunk is developed not much formal pruning needs to be done, besides removing the suckers all the way down to the ground. Be sure to remove any dead or damaged branches. It is also beneficial to occasionally thin out branches to allow sunlight to reach the inner branches. I have even read a recommendation to prune 25% of old wood down to the ground each year. Prune your tree when it is dormant, in the winter.

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Question:
Please explain how and when to prune a pink spirea.

Answer:
Prune your pink spirea in early spring. You should prune the spirea on a regular basis to thin out old wood. This variety bloom on new wood, so the plants and flowers will look best when the old wood is cut back. In general, it is best to thin out up to one-third of the oldest stems and remove overcrowded growth each year. If the spirea needs to be rejuvenated, you can also cut it down almost to the ground.

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Question:
The center sprout on my Cornus Florida Dogwood is MUCH taller than the rest of the tree (almost two feet) and I'd like to cut it back to help keep the tree more full than tall. Can I safely do this, and when?

Answer:
Dogwood trees should be pruned as little as possible. The sap bleeds in late spring, so prune in late winter. You should be able to cut back the extra-tall center sprout. General maintenance pruning for your dogwood should include removing any crossing branches and water sprouts. Be sure to leave the lowest limbs at 2-3 feet above the ground level. You'll want to use thinning cuts to maintain horizontal branching.

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Question:
How do I "train" gardenia bushes to grow thick and wide for privacy? What is the best time of year to drastically cut the bushes to a lower height? Is there a particular way to cut the bushes?

Answer:
Pruning the taller stems should encourage new growth on the top. Thin out any twiggy or diseased branches to promote a more bushy plant. Pinching the tips of growing shoots will also encourage more branching.

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Question:
How do I trim Confederate Jasmine vine to keep it looking neat and under control?

Answer:
You will want to prune your jasmine vine after it flowers. When you prune you will need to cut out any weak, damaged or dead shoots, and also remove any overcrowded growth. Never remove more than one-third of the vine in a year.

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Question:
My wisteria's new leaves this spring are starting to curl up, turn brown and dry up. What would the problem be?

Answer:
Generally, are so hardy and hardly ever have a problem with pests or disease. Did you prune the vine during the dormant season? If not, what you see may be the old foliage from last year that hasn't been consumed by the new growth this year. Also, did you fertilize early this spring? It's best to fertilize either after frost or in early Spring. Use a fertilizer that is relatively low in nitrogen and relatively high in phosphate.

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Question:
I chopped some small Maple tree roots out from underground. Is this harmful to the tree? Can we chop out some of the roots?

Answer:
Cutting the underground roots of your Maple tree shouldn't hurt the tree. Depending on where they were cut and how much was cut, the growth of the tree may be stunted for a while. Once the root system is re-established, your Maple tree should continue to grow at a normal rate. Generally, tree roots are pruned to control the height of a tree or shrub, or to prepare it to be transplanted. On a tree, you would dig a circle just outside the drip line of the branches.

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Question:
How and when should we prune a Russian Olive shrub? Do we need to trim bowing branches right back to the trunk or can we remove part of a branch?

Answer:
If your tree is healthy, you can leave it unpruned to create a very dense plant. If that's not the look you want, trim the lower branches, leaving one main trunk. Always remove any dead, diseased or awkward (such as your bowing